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Discuss Tel's Training Tips - Education Tels Way in the Electrician Courses : Electrical Quals area at ElectriciansForums.net

telectrix

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This month's Tel's Tip.

Ever been about to fit some pvc conduit and found you've not got your bending spring?????

Panic not.

Cuts 4 pieces of 10mm GN/Y singles to be long enough to go past where you want the bend. insert into tube , warm tube with hair dryer or friction, bend over knee or whatever method you prefer. remove bits of cable. Job done. ( this is for 20mm tube. work it out yourself for 25mm ).
 
Why did it need a bend, could the vertical not have been shortened for a 90?
Not questioning your experience Tel, you've got 65 years experience on me!
 
the vertical tube is literally only 2" from the corner. the bend is totally horizontal, just a kick out from the wall.
 
2" where the elbow is next that big blob of cement. more like 3" further up.and it's the brickwork that's out, not the tube :)
 
Only having a jest Tel, must admit I was never great with steel tube but I got by but with plastic I can loop the loop with no manufactured bends.
 
unfinished. as the existing 10mm was in the way, i unclipped it. after the pic was taken, 10mm was re-clipped and cable tied to the tube. well spotted though.
 
point noted. i'm back today to finish testing so will cut off the cable tie ( there's only one, just above the elbow) .and bang a clip clip on the 10mm.
 
I'm sure you all do this anyway but if fitting a shower pull switch [other than Crabtree] keep your cable inner cores as short as you can certainly shorter than the depth of the mounting box then when connected ease the cables back up into the void above and the switch will go up to the box without having to wrestle with it, especially relevant with 10mm cable.
 
I'm sure you all do this anyway but if fitting a shower pull switch [other than Crabtree] keep your cable inner cores as short as you can certainly shorter than the depth of the mounting box then when connected ease the cables back up into the void above and the switch will go up to the box without having to wrestle with it, especially relevant with 10mm cable.
I tried explaining this to one of my apprentice lads. He just didn't get it at all, after half a dozen attempts he gave up and threw a tantrum. I just calmly took over the job and finished it right in front of him in less than a couple of minutes. He calmed down and had his tail between his legs for the rest of the day. :)
 
I'm sure you all do this anyway but if fitting a shower pull switch [other than Crabtree] keep your cable inner cores as short as you can certainly shorter than the depth of the mounting box then when connected ease the cables back up into the void above and the switch will go up to the box without having to wrestle with it, especially relevant with 10mm cable.
This method, for you trainee's out there, also reduces the strain on the connections you would normally experience when folding cables back into a box. This is highly relevant and important because poorly fitted shower switches are notorious for having loose connections, thus increasing risk of arching, failure or fire.
 
Thread reopened at Tels request.
Broken back box lug? drill 6mm hole in back of box, directly behind broken lug. then 5.5mm masonry bit into brick/block. insert red rawlplug, then get a pin extender with a faceplate 3.5mm pin in it, screw into rawlplug till tight ( sometimes a bit of supergue on the thread may be advantageous) then with pliers on the hex. of the extender, remove 3.5mm pin. ready to fix faceplate and looks better than a thin woodscrew.

edit: and thanks to westie for re-opening this old thread.
 

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